Cheap vs Mid-Range vs Premium Kitchen Knives: Side-by-Side Sharpness and Edge Retention Test

This post tests kitchen knives side by side so you can see which one might be right for you, and whether there’s a noticeable difference between cheap, mid-range, and expensive knives.

Watch the full video here

Why I did this side-by-side test

Most home cooks face the same question: should you save money on knives or invest in a premium one? Knives can be tricky, and knowing which one to spend your money on can make or break your cooking experience. To make the differences easier to see, the goal here is simple: put different price tiers next to each other and test them under the same conditions.

The knives in the lineup

The lineup included five knives:

• A cheap knife under $20 (a Kiwi knife)
  
• A $75 knife made by a Korean blacksmith
  
• A mid-range knife just over $100 from a popular brand
  
• Two premium knives over $200: one from a well-known brand and one from my own line
  

This test is not sponsored. Even though one knife is from my own brand, the goal is to show everything as it is.

First impressions: look and finish

Before sharpening or testing performance, the first comparison is about look and finish, including blade thickness and handle feel.

• Under $20 Kiwi knife: the wooden handle is finished quite well for the price. The blade is very thin—about 1 mm. The idea here is that the thin blade can give a feeling of good cutting power even if the sharpness is weak.
  
• $75 Korean blacksmith knife: the steel isn’t clear, and there is patina on the blade with an oil coating, suggesting it may rust easily. It is hammer forged, which suggests good cutting ability, but the blade is thick—slightly over 3 mm. That thickness may reduce smooth cutting texture, but the edge is expected to be quite sharp. It also looks more useful for rough work like fish or meat cutting.
  
• Mid-range knife (just over $100): it’s light with a trendy one-piece design. It looks modern and stylish, but the handle is narrow, so grip is not very good, and reviews say it can be slippery. Its strong points are clear: it’s highly rated for sharpness, edge retention is not bad, and the blade is thin—about 2 mm—so it’s expected to make clean, smooth cuts. The main downside is the handle, which can cause fatigue in long cooking sessions. For short home cooking sessions, it can still be an attractive choice.
  
• $200 German knife: it has a classic French knife profile with a high tip. The weight balance is focused more on the handle side, and it’s made for rocking motion cutting. It uses German steel. The finishing and design are excellent, but the balance and blade thickness may be personal preference issues.
  
• Japanese-style gyuto (premium): it uses VG10 steel and is hammer forged. The blade is thin at about 2 mm. Handle finishing is good and balance is nice. This is from my own brand, but it’s included for honest comparison.
  

Hardness: a useful spec, but not the whole story

One measurable spec is Rockwell hardness. If hardness is too high, the knife becomes hard and sharp but loses flexibility and can chip more easily. If it’s too low, it won’t chip as easily, but it is less sharp and can bend.

• Kiwi knife: the hardness is difficult to predict, but it is expected to be below 55 HRC.
  
• Korean blacksmith knife: hardness is hard to predict because the steel and heat treatment are unknown, but it’s hoped the quality is good because it is handmade by a blacksmith.
  
• Mid-range knife: when searched, hardness is 56 to 58.
  
• German knife: when searched, Rockwell hardness is 58.
  
• Japanese-style gyuto: hardness is 60 HRC.
  

High hardness does not always mean better. Forging also matters because forging can make the steel structure more dense and remove impurities, which affects sharpness. Even so, hardness is one clear number that can be compared.

Sharpening test: same stone, same stopping point

All knives were sharpened under the same condition using the same whetstone. For each knife, sharpening continued until the apex was made. Once the apex was complete, sharpening stopped.

• Kiwi knife: becomes sharp very quickly.
  
• Korean blacksmith knife: also gets sharp without much effort, but takes about double the time of the Kiwi knife. It is harder than the Kiwi knife, and it feels slippery, described as not being very “impuritized,” so it doesn’t scrape the stone as well.
  
• Mid-range knife: easier to sharpen than expected. Even with a hardness level between 56 and 58, it grips the stone well and sharpens easily. It is recommended for home cooks or beginner chefs for easier maintenance compared to the $200 range.
  
• $200 German chef knife: the hardness feels totally different. It is hard and slippery, and it took the most time to sharpen. For beginners in sharpening or maintenance, it is not really recommended.
  
• Japanese-style gyuto: grips the stone well and sharpens quite easily. It is harder than the German steel knife but easier to sharpen.
  

Sharpness test: paper, tomato, and shaving hair

All knives were sharpened under the same condition and tested in three ways:

• Cutting paper
  
• Slicing a tomato
  
• Shaving hair
  

With cutting paper, there wasn’t a big difference. With slicing a tomato, there was a small difference—the tomato moved a little with the less sharp knife. Shaving hair showed a dramatic difference.

Edge retention test: cardboard cuts until tomato slicing fails

Edge retention was tested by cutting cardboard boxes first, then slicing a tomato right after, repeating until the knife could not slice the tomato. Progress was checked every 10 cuts.

• Cheap Kiwi knife: became blunt after about 100 cuts.
  
• $75 Korean blacksmith knife: started getting blunt after about 340 cuts.
• \n
• Mid-range knife: started getting blunt after about 350 cuts.
  
• German premium knife: started getting blunt after about 620 cuts (not fully blunt, just starting to get blunt).
  
• Japanese-style gyuto: continued through 300, 600, 900, and 1,040 cuts and was getting blunt but not fully blunt. The test was stopped because 1,000 cuts was considered enough to prove good edge retention.
  

What these results mean for each price tier

After the tests, each knife type fits a different kind of user and use case.

• Cheap Kiwi knife: cheap and easy to use without worry, but it gets dull very fast. Buying a whetstone can feel like too much for this knife. It’s better to use a honing rod before cooking and replace the knife when it fails.
  
• $75 blacksmith knife: if you don’t care about modern design and you manage rust well, the performance is not bad. Because the spine is thick, it’s not good for delicate cuts. It’s more suitable for rough cuts like meat or fish. Sharpness and edge retention are okay for the price.
  
• Mid-range knife: good for home use. Sharpness is excellent for the price and edge retention is not too bad, but the handle is uncomfortable, so long cooking sessions can be difficult. Still, for short daily cooking at home, it can be highly recommended.
  
• Premium German knife: this is professional-level territory. The forged steel blade is sharp and edge retention is solid. Because the bolster does not go all the way down, it is more comfortable for rocking motion style than other French-style knives. It shows true professional performance.
  
• Premium Japanese-style gyuto: thin and light, great for precise cutting. The balance is described as perfect for pinch grip. Edge retention is even better than the German knife, but it may not be best for rough use.
  

How to choose the right knife for you

There is no single best knife. A sushi chef’s best knife will not work in a butcher shop. The best knife depends on your cooking style, your environment, and your budget.

Sometimes even professional chefs use cheap or mid-range knives because they resharpen them often. From this perspective, using a professional-grade knife can reduce fatigue and give more stable performance.